SAINT-TROPEZ... could it be magic?

As he cast the anchor, Signac was immediately struck by the town's quality of light: "This is not just a place of call, this is where I'm going to live!" he is quoted as saying. From 1909 to 1934, he was owner of the "Salon des Indépendants" - the gallery where every budding artist dreamed of exhibiting at the time.  

And that's how a whole host of young artists - many of whom were to become extremely famous names - came to haunt Saint-Tropez.

These then unknown figures were called Henri Matisse, Louis Valtat, Albert Marquet, André Derain, Charles-Henri Person, Pierre Bonnard and many more - and all fell under the spell of Provence's very special light quality! At the "Salon des Indépendants", the Parisian bourgeoisie who came to buy their works soon succumbed to the charms of the decors and life of leisure depicted by the young artists, and Saint-Tropez and the neighbouring Riviera towns rapidly became coveted by these wealthy visitors.

The rest is history, although the magic of Saint-Tropez is still very much alive today. Just what makes the town so charming is not easy to pinpoint - it will depend on your mood, the weather and the time of day as you approach by the winding road. That's generally when your heart starts beating a little faster...

Early in the morning, the waters of the Bay are still sleepy and undisturbed by the wake of motor boats. At midday, the heat can be rather suffocating, especially in the height of Summer. So you're best off on the beach, at "Les Canebiers" or "Les Salins"! One thing is sure: you should put off your visit to the port for a while and concentrate instead on the beauty of the hills surrounding the town. Leave your car at the foot of Mont Pécoulet and climb the few yards separating you from  Saint- Anne's chapel.

Once you reach the door, turn round and take a look...Then walk all the way round the chapel and breathe in the fragrant air of Provence!

Still circumventing the port for the moment, don't miss a visit to the hilltop Citadel - a fascinating historic monument which is open to visits. Built by soldiers in the late 16th century, the Citadel was constantly besieged by the very inhabitants it was intended to protect - and often with Royal approval too!

Climb to the top of the tower and enjoy the view! If you arrive on the morning of May 16th, you will be able to follow the musketeers and sailors taking part in the town's world-famous "Bravades" celebration; Saint-Tropez's history and Patron Saint are solemnly celebrated here every year for three days... But the ideal moment to enter the town is probably at dusk, when the sun finally retreats behind the hills of Grimaud and the Mistral wind slumbers. As night falls, enjoy the maze of little streets, the café terraces and the music, laughter and general bubble and fizz that descends on Saint-Tropez every evening.

For you really must spend at least one night here in order to appreciate the beauty of the morning light, as you drink a coffee on the port then stroll down to "Môle Jean Réveille" jetty and sit on the infamous "Banc des Mensonges" (Liar's Bench). Take a tour to discover the "Porche de la Ponche" - the town's ancient access - the port, shady lanes, beautiful little chapels, tiny squares, alleyways, short cuts and secret gardens hidden right in the centre!... Little by little, let yourself fall under the spell.

And then, if you're in the mood on another evening, why not try out Saint-Tropez's ultra-famous night life. Get into the groove!